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  • Everything You Need to Know This Week in Watches (August 31- September 4), Geneva Watch Days Edition

Everything You Need to Know This Week in Watches (August 31- September 4), Geneva Watch Days Edition

Gallet returns after 200 years under Breitling, Bvlgari hands the Octo Finissimo to Vianney Halter, Urwerk puts the UR-150 in gold, and the GPHG names its 2026 nominees.

Kathleen McGivney
Kathleen McGivney

Sep 5, 2026

•

3 min read

New Releases at GWD

Geneva Watch Days remain in full swing, wrapping up on Sunday, September 6. Many participating brands have begun using this event as a platform to launch new watches outside of the bustling trade fairs like Watches & Wonders. A full list of exhibiting brands is available on the event’s website here. Some highlights from participating brands include:

Photo: Bvlgari

Photo: Bvlgari

Bvlgari announced the Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter, the first time that the brand has collaborated with an independent watchmaker on the Octo Finissimo. It features Bvlgari's recognizable signature Octo Finissimo case with the equally recognizable signature four-dial display from independent watchmaker Vianney Halter, with time, GMT, Date and Day/Night functions. It somehow packs all of this horological punch into the signature case dimensions of the Octo Finissimo at 40.5mm diameter at only 9.70mm thickness. It comes in two case versions, titanium (limited to 30 pieces) and rose gold (limited to 15 pieces). The titanium, ref. 104356, is priced at $80,000, and the rose gold, ref. 104355, at $123,000, both excluding taxes.

Photo: Urwerk

Photo: Urwerk

Urwerk released a new version of its UR-150 model with the UR-150 Golden Scorpion. As with many Urwerk models, it displays time in a unique way, with hours displayed on three satellite discs, and a retrograde minute hand that travels along a 240-degree arc that travels two-thirds of the circumference of the dial before snapping back to the starting position at the top of the new hour (or the end of the prior hour, depending on how you think about the very nature of the measurement of hours). The Golden Scorpion introduced a 2N 18K gold alloy, which gives it a softer, almost vintage appearance despite its decidedly space-age design. It is available in a limited edition of 25 pieces and priced at CHF 105,000, or about $130,500, excluding taxes.

Photo: Urwerk

Photo: Urwerk

Gallet, a Swiss brand that was founded in 1826 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, was acquired by Breitling in 2025 and relaunched in its new iteration to celebrate the 200th anniversary of its founding at Geneva Watch Days 2026. The inaugural collection under the House of Brands family include four collections: the Flying Officer, geared towards world travelers; the Multichron Pilot and Multichron Sport, tool watches with various functions for pilots and sporty adventurers; and Gallet Classics, tributes to Gallet pieces past that have been reimagined and manufactured by sibling brand Breitling.

The Flying Officer is available in two versions, the Automatic 40 and the Chronograph 40, both of which track 24 time zones for those on the go. The Multichron Pilot Chronograph 42 offers a second time zone and a telemeter that allows the wearer to calculate the distance of weather phenomena such as lightning, and the Multichron Sport Chronograph 41 offers a high-contrast, legible chronograph dial with a tachymeter scale for tracking speed over time. The Tribute to Multichron Yachting Big Eye offers a regatta timer function, the Tribute to Multichron 45 carries both telemeter and tachymeter scales on a black dial, and Tribute to Silverlight, a chronograph with a silver-toned dial that is a tribute to the vintage Multichron Navigator. The Flying Officer Automatic 40 is priced at $2,900 on a strap and $3,100 on a bracelet. The Flying Officer Chronograph 40, the Multichron Pilot Chronograph 42 and the Multichron Sport Chronograph 41 are each $4,400 on a strap and $4,600 on a bracelet.

Photo: M.A.D.Editions

Photo: M.A.D.Editions

M.A.D.Editions, the more affordably-priced brand from the horological innovators at MB&F, released its latest M.A.D.3 in collaboration with iconoclastic watchmaker Vincent Calabrese. The design was inspired by Calabrese's Baladin watch launched in 1989 and its wandering-hour display. At first glance, it looks like a typical jumping hour complication, with a small window displaying the hour, but in action, the hour display travels progressively around the dial. It's powered by a specially modified Swiss-made La Joux-Perret G111 calibre and is housed in a 40mm stainless steel case. The vibrant pink version is only available to clients, suppliers, and partners of the brand, while the blue version is available via the M.A.D.Editions raffle system, which is open until September 7. It is priced at CHF 2,900, or about $3,600, before tax. Register for the raffle on their website here.

Photo: Girard-Perregaux

Photo: Girard-Perregaux

Photo: Girard-Perregaux

Girard-Perregaux introduced the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39mm, which pulls together multiple distinct characteristics of the brand's signature models: the distinctive Laureato case architecture, a Clous de Paris dial, blue Grand Feu enamel (on one of the two versions), their signature bridges, and a lyre-shaped tourbillon cage. It's powered by an all-new in-house GP8410 automatic tourbillon calibre, with a 72-hour power reserve. The blue Grand Feu enamel dial version is priced at $100,000 USD and the 18K solid gold rose-toned dial is priced at $95,600 USD.

Industry News

Photo: Grand Seiko

Photo: Cleguer

Photo: Frédérique Constant

The GPHG released the full list of nominated watches on September 1 after the first round of voting by the 1,000+ member Academy was completed and tabulated. There are six nominations in each of the 14 categories: Time Only, Essential, Complication, Mechanical Exception, Gemset, Tourbillon, Chronograph, Calendar and Astronomy, Sports, Jewellery, Artistic Crafts, "Petite Aiguille", Challenge, and Mechanical Clock. The Academy will undertake another round of voting, followed by a detailed examination and ranking of the watches by the Jury. The awards ceremony will take place on November 7, 2026 in Geneva and will be livestreamed on gphg.org. A full detailed description of all the nominated timepieces is available on Crown & Caliber here.


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NAVIGATION

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