Bvlgari, Octo Finissimo 37 Satin-Polished Titanium
Bvlgari spent three years at its Le Sentier manufacture on the BVF 100 caliber, which brings a 20 percent reduction in size together with a 20 percent increase in power reserve, to 72 hours.

Laurent Ferrier, Classic Origin Beige
The hand-wound LF 116.01 carries Laurent Ferrier's long-blade ratchet system, which the workshop values for the smoothness of its winding action and for the sound that winding makes.

Chopard, L.U.C 1860
The 18-carat white gold dial is hand-guilloché on a vintage lathe in a sunburst pattern, in a shade Chopard calls Areuse Blue, inspired by the river that flows near the Fleurier manufacture it opened 30 years ago.

Naoya Hida & Co., NH Type8A
At 31mm it is the smallest watch nominated in this category, and its numerals are carved deeply by hand into a dial finished with modern machining technology, an idea Naoya Hida began pursuing in 2012 after recalling an antique pocket watch whose numerals had been cut by a master craftsman.

Parmigiani Fleurier, Toric Petite Seconde
Parmigiani hammered the dial from 18-carat white gold and cut the two large bridges beneath it from solid 18-carat rose gold, in an edition of thirty numbered 1 to 30.

Piaget, Piaget Polo 79 Sodalite Watch
Piaget has used onyx and lapis lazuli in the Polo 79 before, and says this sodalite version, carrying roughly 2.8 carats of the stone, is the first ornamental stone dial in the contemporary range.

Audemars Piguet, Neo Frame Jumping Hour
Audemars Piguet has built jumping hours before, but says Calibre 7122 is its first self-winding one, and the rectangular case with vertical gadroons is drawn from a 1929 model.

Daniel Roth, Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton
Case and movement are both solid 5N rose gold, in a watch 6.9mm thick built in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.

Grand Seiko, Hand-engraved Manual-winding Spring Drive
Each of the fifty dials is engraved by hand with the flow of a waterfall, a motif carried on across the platinum case, over Caliber 9R02, which Grand Seiko calls the thinnest Spring Drive movement at 4.0mm.

MB&F, SP One Platinum
The barrel, the balance wheel and the dial appear to hover under sapphire domes at the center of the case, in what MB&F calls its smallest and slimmest watch and the first of a line it has named Special Projects.

Parmigiani Fleurier, Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Arctic Rose
Two minute hands sit one on top of the other, invisible to each other, until the pusher at 10 o'clock adds a minute; the pusher at 8 adds five, and the crown resets them.

Stéphane Pierre, L'Impétrant
Two retrograde hands sweep across ceramic dials for twelve hours and then return to their starting point together, on the first watch Stéphane Pierre has made.

Cleguer, Inspiration One
Cleguer's first watch runs the Innate escapement, a reworking of the 200-year-old natural escapement that took five years to make self-starting, beneath a grand feu champlevé enamel dial set off-center at 2 o'clock.

Czapek, Time Jumper
Czapek marked ten years since its revival not with a grand complication but with a 40.5mm steel case it calls a flying saucer, taking the round form and guillochage of François Czapek's pocket watches somewhere retro-futuristic.

Dominique Renaud, Pulse60 Titanium Black
The balance wheel oscillates just 60 times per minute, the same frequency as a human heart at rest and, Dominique Renaud says, the lowest frequency in contemporary mechanical watchmaking.

Lederer, CIC 39 InVerto Titanium
Bernhard Lederer built the movement around an inverted construction so that the double remontoir d'égalité, normally concealed behind dials and bridges, becomes what he calls the true protagonist of the timepiece.

Ulysse Nardin x Urwerk, UR-FREAK
Ulysse Nardin's Freak rotates its entire movement to tell the time and Urwerk uses wandering hour satellites, and the UR-FREAK fuses both in the first watch the two brands have made together.

Vianney Halter, Behrens X Vianney Halter: KWH
The design came from an antique electricity meter that Behrens founder Lin Bingqiang noticed in Vianney Halter's workshop, similar to one he already owned, and the hour display on the 870-component caliber the two co-developed takes its cue from the video game Snake.

Blancpain, Grande Double Sonnerie
Blancpain spent eight years and developed 21 patents on a striking mechanism whose four hammers are tuned to E, G, F and B, which lets the owner select at the push of a button between the Westminster chime and a second melody composed for the brand by the musician Eric Singer.

Chopard, L.U.C Grand Strike
Chopard made the gongs from sapphire crystal rather than steel, and puts more than 11,000 hours of research and ten patents behind the watch.

Christiaan van der Klaauw, CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric Silicium
Hand-painted Super-LumiNova planets trace their real orbital periods across a dial of nine oxidized silicon pieces, from Mercury's 87.97 days out to Neptune's 164.80 years, inside a steel case carbon-hardened to roughly 1,200 Vickers. Six of this CVDK × Revolution edition will be made.

Ferdinand Berthoud, Naissance d'une Montre 3
Ferdinand Berthoud spent six years on eleven timepieces, handcrafted with traditional tools and no digital assistance and chronometer-certified by the COSC, drawing on more than 80 artisans across Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud and Chopard.

H. Moser & Cie, Endeavour Minute Repeater Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Cosmic Rain
Hammers and gongs, traditionally concealed on the reverse of the movement, are revealed here on the dial side, which required a complete rethinking of the caliber's architecture to hold the acoustic performance. Twenty will be made.

Konstantin Chaykin, Thinking Mystery
To reach a case 1.65mm thick, Konstantin Chaykin stopped stacking the balance assembly and spread it into a single plane, using two wheels whose rims mesh via peripheral teeth and function as one system.

Bovet 1822, Récital 23
Bovet's Writing Slope case inclines toward the wearer, and the 174 diamonds on its dial, with 72 more on the bezel, are set so flush that the maison tests the surface against a silk shirt.

Bvlgari, Serpenti Aeterna
Two hundred and ninety-three brilliant-cut diamonds are snow-set across a curved rose gold bangle that Bvlgari designed to stack with the rest of its bracelets.

Chopard, L'Heure du Diamant
Fluting continues seamlessly from the dial into the integrated gold link bracelet, a design Chopard traces back to the Scheufele family workshops of the 1960s.

Franck Muller, Round Triple Mystery Skeleton
There are no hands at all: Franck Muller added a third rotating disc, for the seconds, to the two it already used for the hours and minutes.

Piaget, Swinging Pebble
Each pebble is sculpted from a single slice of ornamental stone chosen by Piaget's own gemologists, and the dial inside has to match it, in a return to the Kimono pocket watches the maison made in 1972.

Tiffany & Co., Paradise Bird Toucan
A 2.5-carat chalcedony cabochon floats above an aperture in the dial that lines up with a loupe in the caseback, letting more light pass through the stone. The toucan itself holds 69 stones and took 32 hours, while the snow-set case holds 425 more and took about 55.

Arnold & Son, Constant Force Tourbillon 11 Platinum
Hand-engraved in the tremblé style, the dial evokes the fern-covered moors around Tintagel, where John Arnold was born, and the watch honors a timepiece Abraham-Louis Breguet presented to John Roger Arnold in 1808, now conserved by the British Museum and, Arnold & Son says, believed to be the first tourbillon-regulated watch Breguet made after filing his patent in 1801.

David Candaux, DC6 Night Forest
The DC6 Night Forest weighs 45 grams, comes in an edition of eight and carries a flying tourbillon tilted at 30 degrees, though Candaux's own GPHG entry devotes a paragraph to how little a tourbillon does for a watch on a moving wrist.

Ferdinand Berthoud, Chronomètre FB 2TV
At 15mm across and without an upper bridge, the flying tourbillon sits open on the dial side of a movement of 1,240 components that took 300 hours of hand finishing.

Girard-Perregaux, Laureato Fifty Three Gold Bridges
Girard-Perregaux introduced the Three Bridges in 1867 and launched the Laureato in 1975, and this watch brings the two designs together.

Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime Flying Tourbillon
Moving the flying tourbillon into the center of the caliber meant rebuilding its architecture to free up the space, while keeping the 24-zone worldtime disc out on the movement's periphery.

Sylvain Pinaud, 30s Tourbillon
Sylvain Pinaud extends the neoclassical language of his Origine here, setting black polished steel components against hand-grained surfaces, over a movement developed and assembled entirely in-house with a 100-hour power reserve and a zero-reset seconds.

Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5 "150th Anniversary"
Audemars Piguet spent five years on the new Calibre 8100, which the brand says brings a flyback chronograph and a flying tourbillon together in the Royal Oak for the first time. The case combines titanium with bulk metallic glass, and 150 will be made.

H. Moser & Cie, Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date
A flyback chronograph, a second time zone and a date all fit onto the dial without a single counter interrupting it, on a hand-wound movement developed by Agenhor.

Louis Moinet, 1816 Chronograph
Louis Moinet dates the first chronograph to 1816 and to its own founder, which makes this the 210th anniversary edition, fitted with a 30-minute counter that jumps.

Parmigiani Fleurier, Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux
At rest it reads as a three-hand watch, but one press of the mono-pusher at 7:30 sends the chronograph hands flying back to twelve to start timing, while a second set appears to keep civil time.

Rexhep Rexhepi, Chronograph Flyback
This is Rexhep Rexhepi's first flyback chronograph, on a new movement whose integrated architecture was the only way to reach the slimness he was after, with the cases, grand feu enamel dials and hand-stitched straps all made in his own workshops.

TAG Heuer, TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph
At 36,000 vibrations an hour it beats faster than any other watch nominated this year, inside a 40mm grade 5 titanium version of the square Monaco case.

Audemars Piguet, 150 Heritage
Audemars Piguet credits this 50mm pocket watch with 47 functions, 30 of them complications, among them a Universal Calendar housed in the caseback cover that works as a mechanical calculator independent of the movement.

Berneron, Quantième Annuel
Caliber 595 performs what Berneron calls an instantaneous quintuple jump at the end of each month, across four jumping apertures for the hour, day, month and am/pm plus the retrograde date.

Bovet 1822, Récital 31
Bovet's perpetual calendar carries a 240-hour power reserve, ten days, the longest of any wristwatch nominated this year.

Christiaan van der Klaauw, CVDK Venus Annual Calendar
Four discs make up the dial, three of them turning, tracking the real positions of Venus, Earth and the Moon.

Krayon, Anyday Rose Gold
A crescent moon advances day by day around a sapphire disc graduated from 1 to 31 and jumps instantaneously at midnight, so the date reads like the agenda Krayon designed it to be.

Parmigiani Fleurier, Toric Perpetual Calendar 30th Anniversary
Once set and kept wound, it needs no correction until 2100, under a rose gold dial hammered by hand in a shade Parmigiani calls Bright Peony.

Chopard, Zagato Lab One Concept
Chopard introduced its first concept watch in 2020 with the Mille Miglia Lab One, and this one was made with the Italian coachbuilder Zagato and cased in ceramicized titanium.

Grand Seiko, Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver
This is the first Grand Seiko diver to run a U.F.A. movement, rated to within 20 seconds a year, and at 40.8mm the smallest diver the brand says it has made.

H. Moser & Cie, Streamliner Pump
There is no crown; the movement winds instead through an orange anodized aluminum button, the Reebok Pump gesture transplanted onto a forged quartz case.

Hermès, Hermès H08 squelette
This is the first skeleton model in the H08 line, and its applied numerals are carved from blocks of Super-LumiNova.

IWC Schaffhausen, Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar Ceralume®
IWC's Ceralume ceramic makes the case itself luminous, along with the dial and the white rubber strap, and the brand says the glow lasts more than 24 hours. The edition runs to 250.

Laurent Ferrier, Sport Traveller Slate Grey
Pushers at 8 and 10 move local time forward or back by an hour without stopping the movement, which winds through an off-centered platinum micro-rotor.

Bvlgari, Tubogas Manchette
A 1974 Tubogas has been revived with diamonds, topazes, rubellites and cabochon citrines, on a single-wrap yellow gold bracelet.

Chopard, Mystery Nut
Chopard's pendant takes the form of a walnut that opens, its shell carrying a gradient of brown and cognac diamonds and its interior entirely set, with a secret watch at the center after close to 600 hours of work.

Dior Montres, Dior Grand Bal Nuit des Indes
The inverted oscillating weight of the patented automatic movement evolves over the dial, so the winding mass becomes the decoration rather than something hidden behind it.

Franck Muller, Vanguard Curvex Cut® Flower
Each stone uses Franck Muller's patented Curvex cut, shaped to follow the natural curve of the flower, and together they form petals across a skeletonized dial.

Jacob & Co, Billionaire Double Tourbillon Angel-Cut Diamonds
Jacob & Co spent two years developing the Angel Cut for its 40th anniversary, a diamond cut using 37 facets, fewer than most traditional cuts, arranged around a lozenge-shaped table. The 37 also marks the years Jacob Arabo has been married.

Piaget, Flowing Curves Cuff Watch
Piaget has returned to the cuff watches of its 1969 21st Century Collection, using a gold hammering technique the maison says it has not applied to a high jewelry creation before.

Andersen Genève, Celestial Voyager VK Edition
The New York collector Vasu Kulkarni commissioned fourteen world timers, one for himself and twelve for friends plus an artist proof, each with a miniature-painted dial of the city where its owner lives or holds a deep connection, among them New York, Toronto, Taipei, Hyderabad, Prague and Zürich.

Audemars Piguet, Établisseurs Nomade
Audemars Piguet has revived établissage, the way of organizing work that the company was born from at the end of the 18th century, and this is one of the first three watches to come out of it.

Bovet 1822, Monsieur Bovet Tribute to Edouard Bovet
Edouard Bovet arrived in Guangzhou in 1818 with four pocket watches and sold them almost at once. The front dial depicts the tall ship The Orville in hand-executed miniature painting, and the off-set dial on the reverse is crafted from stone taken from the Château de Môtiers.

Bvlgari, Serpenti Misteriosi
Concealed in the snake's head is the BVL 100 Piccolissimo, which Bvlgari calls the smallest round mechanical movement on the market, above a bracelet whose links are lacquered in five shades.

L.Leroy, Vox Temporis
The tourbillon minute repeater takes its rotating dial from a tact watch Leroy made around 1810 for a prince of Hesse, built for a time before electricity or luminous hands, when the hour was read in the dark by feeling for the hand as it pointed toward twelve diamonds set around the edge of the case, which served as the indices.

Louis Vuitton, Tambour Taiko Arty Automata
Twenty miniature elements are arranged across four levels in 23 shades of champlevé enamel, with the white gold rotor finished in miniature painting, after more than 250 hours of hand work.

Christopher Ward, Loco Classic
Christopher Ward began designing this dress case in early 2024, before the launch of the sports-focused C12 Loco, around the hand-wound CW-003 and its 144-hour power reserve.

Frédérique Constant, Classic Worldtimer Manufacture
Frédérique Constant counts the new FC-719 as the 35th Manufacture movement it has developed since 1988, and the caliber pushes the Worldtimer's power reserve to 72 hours under a newly date-free dial.

Massena LAB, Noctograph by Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès
Massena LAB designed the movement in collaboration with Raúl Pagès, and the feuille hands are drawn from dress watches of the 1930s and 1950s.

Ming, MING × J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightning
Every dial is grade-2 titanium, engine-turned by hand on a rose-engine lathe in Josh Shapiro's Los Angeles workshop, in a Lightning guilloché pattern he had not used on a wristwatch before.

Otsuka Lotec, No.8
Founded by the independent watchmaker Jiro Katayama, Otsuka Lotec laid the No.8 out like a mixing console, with the hour channel jumping and the minute fader sliding back from 60 to 0, on a 62-component module that turns on a 1.5mm MinebeaMitsumi ball bearing the brand says is the smallest in the world.

TAG Heuer, TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph
Beating inside the 39mm grade 5 titanium case is the Calibre TH20-11, which TAG Heuer developed in-house as a reinterpretation of the Calibre 11, and the crown stays on the left, one of the design codes the Monaco has kept.

Beaubleu, La Pièce No.2
Working with the Monnaie de Paris, Beaubleu produced a monobloc dial engraved and struck from a single piece of metal, so the indices are formed directly from the solid mass rather than applied separately.

Beda'a, Angles Guichets
The Sun and then the Moon cross an upper aperture whose fixed scale runs from 6am to 6pm, marking the passage of day and night above a second window for the minutes, in an eight-faceted case built across three stepped levels.

Favre Leuba, Chief Skeleton
Favre Leuba says this is the first fully skeletonized timepiece it has made in its 289-year history.

Frédérique Constant, Classics Moneta Handwinding
Frédérique Constant held this to 999 pieces, on a hand-wound movement developed by La Joux-Perret with a 63-hour power reserve, under a smoked salmon gradient dial.

Seiko, King Seiko VANAC
Seiko has revived the VANAC, introduced in 1972 with its multifaceted design, using titanium for the first time under a purple dial drawn from Tokyo's cityscape and the highways running through it as the city emerges in the morning light.

SpaceOne, SpaceOne X Baltic - Seconde Majeure
Théo Auffret developed the jumping-hour module, and the dial that unifies the construction is machined from a single piece of German silver.

Carl Suchy & Söhne, Table Waltz Tourbillon Mirror Edition
Carl Suchy & Söhne says the Table Waltz brought the first tourbillon created in Vienna in more than a century, and this Mirror Edition is a single piece whose hourly chime can be locked.

Chopard, The Beehive Chiming Table Clock
Borosilicate glass and gold bees form the hive, built with L'Épée 1839 in an edition of ten, and the beehive has been a Chopard emblem since the days of Louis-Ulysse Chopard.

L'Épée 1839, The Gekko
L'Épée 1839 built The Gekko to fix to a wall in ten different positions, with a rotating dial ring so the hour markers stay upright whichever way the lizard is facing.

La Vallée, Cosmo
Cosmo's entire 14.5-kilogram mechanism is magnetically suspended and completes one revolution on its own axis every sidereal day, on a power reserve of 406 days.

Louis Vuitton x De Bethune, LVDB-03 Sympathique Louis Varius
A sympathique clock is paired with a De Bethune DB25 GMT Starry Varius whose movement is housed in a blued titanium Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko case, a project that brought together thirty specialists from fifteen technical and artistic disciplines.

Miki Eleta, Frog Queen
A frog appears every hour, and once every twelve hours the Frog Queen reveals herself inside her flower, until a crane in the pond pecks at the frogs and the flower closes protectively around her again. A snake indicates the minutes, each one represented by a tadpole.