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  • Everything You Need to Know About Watches (September 21-25)

Everything You Need to Know About Watches (September 21-25)

Grönefeld packs four complications into the 1941 Quadrivium, Vacheron Constantin marks 30 years of the Overseas, Panerai brings the Luminor down to 42mm, and H. Moser goes digital with the Off-Grid.

Kathleen McGivney
Kathleen McGivney

Sep 26, 2026

•

5 min read

New Releases

Grönefeld announced its latest complicated timepiece, the 1941 Quadrivium, which brings together four features from three of their sought-after (and discontinued) previous models, the Remontoire, Parallax Tourbillon, and the One Hertz. The Quadrivium has a 7.5-second remontoire constant force mechanism with its spinning governor exposed through an aperture on the dial at the nine o’clock position; a flying tourbillon at six o’clock; a power reserve indicator at the upper left of the dial; and a dead-beat seconds hand, all packed into a 40mm case. The 473-part movement features twin barrels that supply a 50-hour power reserve, and has all of the movement architecture and finishing details you’d expect from the Grönefeld brothers, from the bridges reminiscent of the bell gables on Dutch houses to the interplay of dark frosted and highly polished movement elements.There will be two versions, limited to 28 pieces each, priced at $319,000 in tantalum and $353,000 in platinum, excluding taxes.

Photo: Grönefeld

Photo: Grönefeld

Vacheron Constantin introduced the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Azure Dial in a limited edition of 200 pieces to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Overseas collection. Housed in a 41.5mm 18k white gold case with an azure blue dial, it is indeed ultra-thin, measuring just 8.1mm thick. It displays hours, minutes, date, day of the week, month, leap year, and phases of the moon, and is powered by the brand’s in-house automatic calibre 1120 QP/1, which includes a 22k gold oscillating weight that’s visible through the sapphire case back. It comes with an 18k white gold bracelet and two additional rubber straps, all easily changed without tools, and is priced at $132,000.

Photo: Vacheron Constantin

Breguet introduced new updates to its Marine collection, the Marine 5517 and the Marine Chronographe 5527. The 5517 comes in a 40mm case and has a three-hand display with hours, minutes, and seconds, and a date aperture at the six o’clock position for balance and symmetry. The dials are gold guilloché with the “Quai de l’Horloge” motif, in different colors, with an ice blue dial on the white gold version, a black dial on the rose gold version, and a blue gradient dial on the titanium version. The 5517 models are powered by the in-house automatic Calibre 777A, with a silicon balance spring and a 55-hour power reserve. They come with a textured rubber strap or a metal bracelet. Prices for the 5517 range from $26,400 to $80,300 depending on metal and strap or bracelet options.

The Chronographe 5527 reads a bit sportier. In a 42.3mm case, it’s available in a choice of white gold, rose gold, and titanium. It has a flyback chronograph function, powered by the in-house automatic Calibre 582QA, with hours, minutes, a central elapsed seconds hand, a date display at six o’clock, a chronograph minute counter at three o’clock, and a small seconds display at nine o’clock. The gold, hand-guilloché dials are in a blue gradient on the white-gold and rose-gold versions, and the titanium version has a subtle grey gradient. Pricing for the 5527 ranges from $33,000 to $93,000 depending on the metal and strap or bracelet options.

Photo: Breguet

Photo: Breguet

Ulysse Nardin added two new limited editions of 99 pieces each to its Freak One line, the Freak One Guilloché and Freak One Blue Enamel, to mark the 25th Anniversary of the Freak, the timepiece that has no dial, no hands and no crown. Both models are in a 44mm titanium case and feature a notched rotating bezel to set the time and a patented winding system on the caseback. Its Grinder winding system has a unique four-bladed rotor that offers an impressive 90-hour power reserve, and the escapement incorporates the brand's patented DIAMonSIL synthetic diamond coating that makes the silicon components even more resistant to shock and friction. The Freak One Blue enamel has a guilloché sunray pattern coated with translucent blue enamel by their in-house enamelling atelier, Donzé Cadrans, while the Freak One Guilloché has a guilloché flinqué pattern in a light sand-toned color with a CVD finish. Both are powered by the in-house UN-240 caliber. The Freak One Guilloché is priced at $80,000 and the Freak One Blue Enamel is priced at $89,800.

Photo: Ulysse Nardin

Photo: Ulysse Nardin

Panerai released three new versions of its Luminor model in a new 42mm size. The PAM01710 is in a steel case with a matte black dial and beige canvas strap; the PAM01711 has a steel case, matte green dial and green canvas strap; and the PAM01714 has a steel case with black DLC, a matte blue dial, and a blue canvas strap. The three new references are powered by the in-house automatic calibre P.980, which has a 3-day power reserve. The case designs were inspired by earlier Luminor models from the early 1990s, the Luminor Ref. 5218-201/A and Luminor Marina Militare ref. 5218-202/A. The prices for the three new 42mm Luminor models range from $6,700 to $7,700.

In addition, the brand also announced the Luminor Tourbillon PAM01784, in a 47mm titanium case, with a skeletonized dial that shows off the architecture of the manually-wound, in-house calibre P.2005/T, a six-day tourbillon GMT, and is priced at $155,100.

Photo: Panerai

Photo: Panerai

H. Moser & Cie. announced a new digital timepiece, the Off-Grid, which eschews the typical features of a conventional smartwatch to focus on features typically seen on a mechanical watch. Its functions include a GMT, a split-seconds chronograph, perpetual calendar, moon phase, and sunrise and sunset times. The watch also has an off-grid mode that allows the user to quickly select a country and peruse a dictionary of 10 words in 21 languages. To conserve energy, it powers down when not in use and springs back to life when it's picked up and on the move again. It combines a digital display with a skeletonized dial that has the brand's signature fumé finishes, with the architecture and case proportions of the Streamliner. It's limited to 1,000 pieces each of two versions: black PVD with a red fumé dial or blue PVD with a black fumé dial. It is priced at $4,900 and is only available for purchase between September 24 and October 5, 2026.

Photo: H. Moser & Cie.

Photo: H. Moser & Cie.

Grand Seiko added a new model to its Elegance collection, the SBGW325 'Arabic Blue', in a limited edition of 600 pieces. The new model honors the brand's first manually wound 9S movement from 2001, Caliber 9S54, which debuted in the SBGW003. Housed in a 37.3mm stainless steel case, it has a deep navy blue dial and contrasting polished Arabic numeral indices. It's powered by the brand's in-house manually wound caliber 9S64, which provides 72 hours of power reserve, and comes with a deep indigo-dyed crocodile strap and an additional white pebbled leather strap. It's priced at $5,800.

Photo: Grand Seiko

Photo: Grand Seiko

Industry News

MB&F and Caran d'Ache have partnered as part of the M.A.D.Gallery's 15th-anniversary celebrations, on the GorillaSharpener. It is a fully functional Caran d'Ache pencil sharpener, built as a muscular, knuckle-walking mechanical gorilla. It's in a limited edition of 300 pieces in an Alpine Frost blue finish and was unveiled on September 24th, World Gorilla Day. MB&F has partnered with the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund, the world's largest and longest-running organisation dedicated to gorilla conservation, and the brand will make a contribution to support the Fund's daily protection, scientific research and conservation work for endangered mountain gorillas. The GorillaSharpener is available at M.A.D.Galleries, MB&F Labs and Lounge, and online at their eShop, and is priced at $1,165.

Photo: MB&F

According to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, Swiss watch exports rose 9.1% in August compared with the same month last year, pushing the twelve-month moving average into positive territory for the first time in two years. In total, there were 95,000 more total units exported in August, driven largely by bimetallic watches (+20.1%) and the "other materials" category (+20.6%). All price categories grew except for those priced between 500-3,000 francs, with a marked increase in those priced below 200 francs (+13.3%) and over 3,000 francs (+10.2%). However, exports to the United States declined sharply in August (-19.4%), presumably due to ever-changing tariff and import rules.

Photo: Eyestetix Studio


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© 2026 Crown & Caliber. All Rights Reserved.