Audemars Piguet Now Vouches for Secondhand Watches on Its Own Platform. Is That Worth Paying For?

"While sitting on a waiting list for a new reference, I was negotiating on a Royal Oak through a private seller just last year. Everything looked right in photos. Then, when I saw it in person, something was off. The bracelet finishing wasn't quite there, and the dial didn't look right," said Paul N., a longtime collector with several Audemars Piguet watches in his collection, who agreed to share his perspective on the condition that his last name not be disclosed. He continued: "I walked away, but not everyone would have done the same. Having AP directly behind the product and offering it online changes that conversation entirely. It means something. I would have purchased it without hesitation."

While waiting for another reference to be allocated to him, he found himself negotiating for a Royal Oak through a relatively unfamiliar private seller.

As many collectors say, you buy the seller before you buy the watch.

Audemars Piguet has finally stepped into the secondary market directly with its own certified pre-owned program, The Watch Keepers, which launched Oct. 26 in Switzerland and Europe with further worldwide expansions planned. The program will operate exclusively online, at least at the time of launch, and include watches at least two years past their first sale.

"With The Watch Keepers, we continue to offer our clients products and services aligned with their expectations. Building on the Manufacture's hospitality, this new end-to-end service provides collectors with the opportunity to give pre-loved timepieces a new life, welcoming anyone curious to explore our world," said Ilaria Resta, Audemars Piguet's chief executive officer, in a statement.

Here's how it works. A seller registers, has the watch's serial number and proof of ownership verified online, then ships it by insured courier to AP's Customer Service facilities. There, the brand's watchmakers authenticate it, check it against the archive registers and evaluate its condition. AP's team shoots high-resolution photos and writes the listing, which grades the case, dial and bracelet on a five-point scale. The seller picks a set price or bidding and decides when the listing goes live; until the watch sells, it remains the seller's property, stored at AP. Buyers go through the same registration before they can transact, and the watch is delivered with a certificate of authenticity, a two-year warranty covering proper functioning and a travel pouch. Visitors to the site are guided by the Expert Watch Keepers, real AP staff rendered as digital avatars.

The concept is hardly new. Certified pre-owned programs have become an increasingly important part of the luxury watch industry, giving manufacturers greater control over how their watches are authenticated, serviced, and ultimately resold. For brands, they provide a direct relationship with the secondary market, an area that has long influenced their reputations and commercial fortunes without necessarily falling under their control.

With The Watch Keepers, Audemars Piguet is applying that model to one of the most recognizable and frequently traded names in high-end watchmaking. The secondary market for Audemars Piguet watches has never been more active, or more treacherous. The Royal Oak ranked third among collections by sold value in the first half of 2026, up 26% year over year, and the Code 11.59 collection grew 55%, according to EveryWatch. The Royal Oak collection has become a fixture of the secondary market, commanding substantial prices and attracting collectors from around the world.

Speaking with serious collectors about The Watch Keepers proved more difficult than expected. Several were hesitant to be identified, concerned that speaking publicly about their collecting habits or relationship with the brand could jeopardize their standing on waiting lists for future purchases. Their reluctance reflects the delicate relationship collectors maintain with brands whose most desirable references can be difficult to acquire through traditional retail channels.

Other collectors are approaching The Watch Keepers with more caution, particularly when it comes to pricing. According to the Swiss newspaper Neue Zürcher Zeitung, AP charges sellers a commission of 20% on the first CHF 25,000 (about $30,300) of the sale price, 15% on the next CHF 25,000 and 10% on anything above CHF 50,000 (about $60,600).

Daymond Piper, a watch collector and enthusiast, said his biggest concerns were the commissions and the grading process, and that sellers may pass the commission along through higher asking prices. "I also worry about vintage watches, where a restored dial could receive a perfect cosmetic grade while an untouched original with natural patina scores lower despite being more collectible. Originality and cosmetic perfection aren't the same thing," he said.

Some enthusiasts echo a similar sentiment, including Steve Fiaello, who said, "The question I have as an outside observer is why would someone go to AP to buy one used versus the gray market? I can't imagine AP will be any cheaper once you include their fee."

Luxury certified pre-owned programs have demonstrated the value of bringing manufacturer-backed authentication and greater availability to the secondary market. For instance, Rolex Certified Pre-Owned posted 101% growth in sales for the first half of 2026, according to the Secondary Market Report from EveryWatch. For buyers, the question is whether the added confidence and peace of mind justify what could be a considerable premium over purchasing the same watch through a reputable independent dealer.