Every year, the watch world descends on Geneva with a singular obsession: what’s new. But there’s another question that runs through the halls of the PalExpo, one that collectors, journalists, and brand heads all notice and love to discuss. What’s on the wrist?
While the novelties behind glass excite, what’s working its way across the convention center, and why, is often as compelling. For some, the answer is strategic: a signal about where a brand is headed or a deliberate nod to its archives. For others, it’s pure instinct: a grail pulled from the personal collection, a travel-ready GMT, or simply whatever felt right that morning. The calculus is surprisingly layered; part diplomacy, part self-expression, part practical consideration for a week spent crossing time zones and working a room.
Ahead of Watches & Wonders 2026, we asked CEOs, brand presidents, collectors, and personalities across the industry to walk us through the one decision nobody briefs them on. Here’s what they’re bringing to Geneva.
Even if I love to wear my Andy Warhol watch, I’ve been wearing the Piaget Polo 79 white gold a lot since last year, then could not stop wearing the two-tone when I had it in my hands. Keeping up with the white gold theme, I now want to switch it for the brand new Piaget Polo 79 with an ornamental stone dial. These 5 slices of sodalite just highlight the gadroon signature even more, and this deep navy blue is so mesmerizing I might not put it back on the tray and swap mine for this one.
— Benjamin Comar, CEO, Piaget
This year is particularly special for us at Ulysse Nardin as we celebrate the 25th anniversary of the iconic FREAK! You might say it’s lacking originality if I wear a FREAK at W&W, but it’s my personal prized possession. I purchased it from a retail partner & friend who helped me find it—this is the original FREAK as unveiled at Basel in 2001, the OG! No crown, no hands, and no dial. The case is in rose gold with a striking blue hour disk. This 25-year-old timepiece initiated the trend of contemporary watches and it’s a cult watch for collectors!
— François-Xavier Hotier, US President of Ulysse Nardin
I will be wearing our latest models, switching between two of my favorite watches. The first is our Navigator limited edition C03 automatic Skeleton to showcase our heritage — the first was designed 30 years ago with Renaud Papi. Since becoming CEO seven years ago I’ve been trying to get Charriol back to creating its own in‑house calibers with Swiss watchmakers, and I’m excited to show three new calibers — C01, C02, and C03 — at Watches & Wonders. I will also be wearing our Mariner in yellow gold and diamonds to emphasize our craftsmanship and love for a ‘bijoux montre.
— Coralie Charriol, CEO and Creative Director, Charriol
At Watches & Wonders, I will proudly wear the Masterlink Perpetual Calendar, the most significant release for Gerald Charles this year. Featuring our first Maestro-shaped movement and a new high-end complication — entirely developed in-house — it represents a major step forward for the Maison. In a fair where everyone looks at the wrist, what truly stands out is the confidence and ease with which a watch is worn. Despite its technical sophistication, its exceptional legibility and comfort make it effortless to wear — a true high watchmaking piece for everyday life, as I demonstrate by wearing it throughout the fair.
— Federico Ziviani, CEO, Gerald Charles
Choosing which watches to bring to Watches & Wonders is no small task, unlike some who prefer to stay device-agnostic, I like to bring pieces that represent the brands present. My rule of thumb is one on the wrist and three in the travel box, so a grand total of four make the yearly pilgrimage. Two are stalwarts: my IWC Top Gun Perpetual Calendar, which cemented my relationship with the brand, and my Jaeger-LeCoultre 1931 Tribute to Reverso US Edition, which I bring back to the PalExpo every year to have the Faglianos refurbish its handmade cordovan strap at JLC’s booth. This year, since I’ll be several time zones from my home base in New York, a Grand Seiko SBGE249 Spring Drive GMT ‘Blizzard’ and a Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT ‘White Light’ round out the box. In a perfect world I’d also have an Oris, a Bremont, a Panerai, and an AP along for the ride, but there’s always next year.
— Adam Craniotes, RedBar Group Founder
I always come back to the Big Bang Unico All Black. It’s a watch that says the most about who we are as a brand. Hublot has always been about being bold and not asking for permission — pushing boundaries and inventing new rules. I’ve always been drawn to the all-black concept — there’s a purity to it. No contrast, no distraction, just form and material doing all the talking. It strips everything back and forces you to really look at the architecture of the watch. People see it and they either get it immediately or they want to know more. This timepiece reminds people why Hublot exists in the first place — and wait for it, there will be a new evolution of it to come during the fair, which I will also be wearing.
— Julien Tornare, CEO, Hublot
My personal rule of thumb: If a brand is feeding you or inviting you to a serious workshop, the polite thing to do is to show up wearing their watch, assuming you own one. If invites start piling up, some prioritization is required. Start with the brand that gave you tickets (goes without saying!), then hosted meals (never bite the hand that feeds you), workshop participation (but of course), cocktails (hydration is important), then someone you want to impress (I’m only human). Nothing that is worth losing a hand over, but the watch should still be nice.
— Sumei Shum, collector
Everyone’s always looking at my wrist, partly because of what I do and partly because of who I am as a collector. There’s a moment where you start yielding toward what you think people want to see. But I’ve learned to just wear what I personally resonate with. This year I’ll rotate a few pieces, but my Patek Philippe ref. 570G in white gold will get a lot of wrist time; it’s a grail for most collectors, but it’s also understated and elegant, a real IYKYK watch. I’ll also have my Rolex Submariner ref. 5513 with the Explorer dial, which is visually striking and was only produced for about two years, so it draws attention. And of course, a Cartier Tank, because when you’re traveling during Watches & Wonders, you want something that’s a little less precious and a little more durable.
— Cam Barr, founder and CEO, Craft & Tailored
I’ll probably take a bit of a different direction with this Cartier Santos from 1911 that I recently got back from a two year restoration with Cartier’s historians. What makes this watch unique is that it’s cased in platinum but stamped white gold (a stamp for platinum didn’t exist until 1912), which has helped us date it since it actually precedes Cartier’s archives. I love the layers of discovery in this piece — from the rose-cut diamonds on the bezel and cabochon to the hidden screws that give it that distinct Santos look. It’s one of the first wristwatches ever put into production by Cartier, and it’s amazing to see how the design language of a gentleman’s watch has evolved in the 115 years since, especially as trends move toward shaped watches with a smaller profile.
— Bijan Malaklou, founding partner, Original Form
Choosing a watch to wear is never simply about selecting the newest one. For me, it is about wearing a piece that says something about who we are at Hermès, and about our singular vision of time. At Watches & Wonders, I’ll be wearing the Hermès H08, a watch I appreciate for its multi-faceted character and the way it suggests rather than declares. In that sense, it feels very much in tune with what we wanted to express this year: a whimsical approach to mechanisms that still leaves room for mystery.
— Laurent Dordet, CEO, Hermès Watches
This year, I will be wearing the Excalibur Monobalancier in Titanium. It is a watch that represents our Maison’s DNA with its skeleton mastery and rotor miniaturization. It is also a timepiece that shows how we are able to use innovative materials. Most importantly, I feel at ease with it: it is light, perfect for the busy days of the fair. Simple, practical and connected to Roger Dubuis’ modern days… and always a watch that sparks the interest of the people I meet.
— Jean-Philippe Bonneau, Chief Marketing Officer of Roger Dubuis
